When we asked our readers what gardening mistakes they made this year, hundreds of people responded. We’ve analysed the responses and found the ten most common mistakes, from pruning too hard and overwatering to buying too many plants and being overwhelmed by weeds and slugs. Find out how to avoid making these mistakes this year with our solutions.

Late sowing causes problems such as small harvests, small fruits and immature crops. Some crops, such as tomatoes, need a long growing season, and a late sowing can result in a lot of green tomatoes that haven’t ripened before autumn.

If the weather is dull and cold consider investing in a heated propagator or mat to increase germination rates indoors. When sowing direct, keep an eye on weather forecasts. For crops like broccoli, which needs a long growing period, if it’s a cold or wet spring, it may be worth sowing indoors into modules and transplanting seedlings when the weather improves.

If limited time is the issue, start small, growing only a few vegetables – either the ones you most like to eat or those that are most expensive to buy. January is a good time to plan ahead. Look up ideal sowing times for the veg or flowers you want to grow and mark sowing times on your calendar. Organising seed packets into sowing months can also act as a useful reminder.

If the spring or summer is particularly wet, slug populations can increase rapidly. Seedlings and young plants are at most risk from slug attacks as well as mature plants such as hostas which are often targeted by slugs. There are several ways to tackle slugs. Keeping on top of populations early will help but bear in mind that slugs also provide food for wildlife.

• Biological control – apply nematodes in the spring to reduce slug populations. Follow instructions carefully as nematodes need to be used when the soil reaches a warm enough temperature, at least 5ºC
• Traps – put a beer trap in your border near vulnerable plants. Make sure the top is 1cm above the soil surface to prevent other creatures falling in
• Encourage wildlife – putting a pond into your garden will encourage frogs and newts, which eat slugs. Encourage other wildlife such as birds and hedgehogs to keep slug populations down
• Copper rings – these are useful for protecting newly planted hostas and other popular slug targets, such as strawberries
• Handpicking – go round the garden with a torch and pick off any slugs. Move them to the compost heap, where there will be lots to feed on or a long way from your plants, as they will find their way back

Overwatering plants like tomatoes can lead to problems such as blossom end rot, while too much water for plants that thrive in dry conditions, such as lavender and succulents, can lead to root rot. Stick your finger into a container to check that the top 3cm of compost is dry before watering. Drought tolerant plants should only need regular watering until established. For fruit and vegetables, keep an eye on the weather forecast to make sure you’re not watering just before heavy rainfall.

Under-watering can also lead to plant problems – symptoms can include shrivelled leaves, a drooping plant and slow growth. Plants in containers will need more regular watering than those in the ground, even after rain, as the water may not get down to the plants’ roots. For those in the ground, focus on watering new plants, aiming the water at the plant’s roots rather than watering from above.

The best way to keep on top of weeds is to tackle them early. Use a weedling ID chart and dig out early weeds as soon as they emerge in the spring. Tackle weeds little and often before plants start to put on growth and make it harder to spot weeds in your borders.

Pruning can help keep vigorous plants under control, as can dividing any large clumps of herbaceous perennials that have become overgrown. If you find you are continually pruning a shrub to keep it under control, it may be worth removing it and replacing it with something more manageable.

It can be hard to resist buying a new plant at a flower show or garden centre, but if you don’t have time to plant them it can be an expensive occupation. If you need new plants, but don’t have time to plant them, heel them in (plant them temporarily) until you have time to plant them in their final position. If the problem is procrastination, because you’re not sure where the plants should go, making a planting plan in January when there is less to do in the garden could help. Take pictures throughout the year to identify any gaps in your displays, then make a list of the plants you need, rather than buying on impulse. If the problem is time based, focus on keeping the plants healthy in their pots until you have time to plant them. Don’t let them dry out, move them out of full sun and prioritise plants that are likely to deteriorate first.

Coming back from holiday to find all your potted plants are dead is not the way to end a relaxing break. A holiday where you optimistically count on a bit of rain is bound to coincide with a heatwave. Aside from asking neighbours and friends to come in and water every few days there are other options.

Setting up an irrigation system with a timer can be an efficient way to ensure your plants survive your holiday. For veg such as greenhouse-grown tomatoes, there are gravity-fed watering systems with drippers, which can water up to six plants. Moving pots into the shade before you leave and grouping containers will help reduce evaporation – and make it easier for anyone who may be doing your watering for you.

Placing plants in the wrong place, such as too close together or in conditions they don’t like is an easy mistake to make. It can be difficult to imagine that the small shrub you bought at the garden centre will ever spread to a metre wide, but not allowing enough space for plants will create a lot of future work if you have to transplant perennials and shrubs to new locations, and plants that grow too big for their space can shade out neighbouring plants. Check the height and spread before planting and check the plant will have enough room once mature.

Following the mantra, ‘Right plant, Right place’ may mean you can’t grow all your favourite plants, but a plant that thrives in clay soil will always struggle in sandy soil and gardening will be easier, cheaper and more satisfying if you buy the right plants for your garden from the outset. Do a soil test for pH, check your soil’s consistency and how much sun the planting area gets before buying anything.

The best way to protect plants from birds such as pigeons is to use netting or put up a fruit cage. Netting placed over hoops or bamboo canes to create a frame can prevent birds from eating ripening fruit or feeding on the leaves of brassicas. Use a fine mesh netting if you have a problem with insects such as caterpillars. This can prevent butterflies laying eggs on the leaves of brassicas. The alternative is to pick eggs and insects off by hand. Unless insect infestations are severely affecting plants, it’s beneficial to your garden’s ecosystem to tolerate some insect pests, as they provide food for birds. Creating a wildlife-friendly garden can help reduce pests.

There are lots of ways to make gardening more low-maintenance. If you feel like you’re continually behind, why not look at ways to cut down your gardening to-do list. Here’s a few ideas:

• Save time on watering by buying drought tolerant plants
• Buy veg plug plants to save time on sowing and potting on
• Use ground cover plants to suppress weeds
• Grow fruit and veg that doesn’t require much attention – courgette, beetroot, dwarf French beans, rhubarb and strawberries all provide tasty crops without the need for tying in, potting on or staking
• Include evergreen shrubs that will add structure but need no deadheading and little pruning, such as abelias

The most common results of pruning mistakes are overgrown shrubs, lack of flowers and excessive leafy growth. Check your plant’s pruning needs before making any cuts. Some common mistakes include:

• No flowers – most flowering shrubs should be pruned after flowering to avoid this. The general rule is to prune shrubs and climbers that flower before June immediately after flowering, and those that bloom after June, in winter
• Overgrown shrubs – giving overgrown shrubs an all over trim encourages a mass of stems and few flowers. To rejuvenate an overgrown shrub, remove a third of the oldest stems each winter, then reduce the remaining stems by half after flowering

Gardens and planted areas in towns and cities are effective at absorbing rainwater and preventing soil erosion. Their ability to take up water reduces the amount that the drainage systems have to cope with and helps avoid flooding in and around our homes. With the government predicting that the severity of flood events is likely to worsen over the next few decades, and that they will become more frequent, it’s important that we use our gardens wisely to help prevent floods.

Removing planted borders and replacing them with large areas of paving affects the capacity of our gardens to absorb rainwater and increases the risk of flooding. If the majority of gardens in a road install impermeable paving (such as in front gardens to provide parking for cars) it can have a significant impact on the amount of surface runoff, which then increases the likelihood of flooding. But there are many types of permeable surfaces which minimise the impact on water absorption, such as grass reinforcement (protects grass from being damaged by vehicle wheels), permeable block pavers, or matrix (or cellular) pavers.

Removing areas between the paving provides space for planting pockets, which act as drainage areas. Low growing, resilient plants such as creeping thyme (Thymus serpyllum), heath pearlwort (Sagina subulata), Corsican mint (Mentha requienii) and creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia) can be planted in these pockets to create interest and aid drainage. Another way to enable water to drain away is by using a permeable surface like gravel, which also provides areas for planting and a surface for car parking.

Gardens with very few plants are more likely to have issues with flooding. Planted areas help water to filter into the ground so there is less runoff. Plants take up water and aerate the soil, enabling it to absorb more water. Evergreen plants require more water during the winter than deciduous plants, which will have lost their leaves, so it’s a good idea to include evergreens in your planting scheme to help absorb water all year round. One study suggested that hedges consisting of yew (Taxus baccata), Cotoneaster franchetii, privet (Ligustrum ovalifolium) and western red cedar (Thuja plicata) had a good ability to absorb water.

Some trees and shrubs have high rates of evapo-transpiration (how they take up water and release it into the atmosphere). These are useful to plant in areas prone to flooding and, according to the RHS, include species such as Forsythia x intermedia and hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna).

When soil becomes compacted, it significantly affects its ability to absorb water. Instead of draining away through the ground, water runs straight over the surface creating flooding problems. Avoid this problem by not walking on soil when it’s wet, avoiding using heavy machinery, and installing paths or stepping stones across lawns.

To improve the condition of soil that has already become compacted, aerate lawns using a garden fork or lawn aerator, switch to no-dig gardening, plant a green manure on bare ground, or add an organic mulch that will help break down the soil structure as it becomes incorporated into the existing soil.

If your plot includes large areas dedicated to garden buildings such as sheds or home offices, it can exacerbate drainage issues and lead to flooding. This risk is worth considering before you add buildings to the garden, but if you already have lots of ground covered with buildings, try installing a green roof to help absorb rainwater before it comes in contact with the ground. Water butts are an excellent way to harvest rainwater from buildings and they providing a sustainable, free source of water for plants.

A garden without water butts misses out on the opportunity to harvest rainwater. Water butts on a house can collect a large amount of water (24,000 litres or more a year) and there are many different sizes, including designs for small spaces and wall-mounted water butts. This prevents the need to use mains water for plants, and reduces the amount of rainwater that the earth needs to absorb, thereby helping to prevent flooding issues.

Japanese knotweed has bamboo like stems and heart-shaped leaves that are around 14cm long. Its botanical name is Reynoutria japonica, also known as Fallopia japonica. This rapidly spreading weed was originally brought to Britain in the 19th century as an ornamental garden plant. It’s now classified as an invasive species. The Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981 states: ‘it is an offence to plant or cause this species to grow in the wild’.

Japanese knotweed is often confused with other plants. Here’s a few of the most commonly mistaken plants, plus our tips on how to tell the difference between them and Japanese knotweed.

Russian vine

This non-native vigorous climber can reach 10m in height, and spread 5-8m. Although it is an ornamental plant, grown for its white flowers, and it isn’t invasive, it does have the potential to become a problem due to its vigorous growing habit. Russian vine is native to Asia and a close relative of Japanese knotweed.

Similarities: it has similar shaped leaves and white flowers.

Differences: the leaves are slightly more arrow shaped and it doesn’t have tall stiff stems, as it’s a climbing vine.

Himalayan balsam (Impatiens glandulifera)

Himalayan balsam is a non-native, invasive annual that used to be grown as an ornamental plant in Britain. It’s now considered a weed and often found along waterways.

Similarities: Himalayan balsam grows to similar heights as Japanese knotweed, up to 2.5m. The stems are also hollow with red tints.

How to tell them apart: Unlike Japanese knotweed, the flowers of Himalayan balsam are pink and purple. Its leaves are long and thin, instead of heart shaped, and arranged opposite each other.

It is an offence to plant or otherwise cause to grow these species in the wild. You should stop them spreading from your garden and avoid purchasing or accepting gifts of these species.

Bindweed (Convulvulus arvensis)

Bindweed is a perennial weed but also a native wildflower. Its flowers are beneficial to wildlife but its twining stems can strangle other plants and it can quickly spread through a garden. It’s difficult to get rid of due to its ability to grow back from small pieces of root.

Similarities: large heart-shaped leaves that are arranged alternately on the stem. It can also grow back from tiny pieces of root.

Differences: bindweed climbs and does not have stiff stems. The flowers are funnel-shaped instead of held on long spires.

Houttuynia (Houttuynia cordata)

Houttuynia cordata is a perennial that’s native to countries in south-east Asia, including Japan, where it grows in shady, moist areas. It isn’t invasive but can get out of control in gardens as it spreads through underground rhizomes. Grow it in containers to restrict its growth.

Similarities: it has heart-shaped leaves and and white flowers.

Differences: the flowers are larger than those of Japanese knotweed, with yellow flowers spikes and white bracts that look like petals, but the main difference is in height. Houttuynia cordata only grows to 30cm, whereas Japanese knotweed reaches heights of 2.5m.

Himalayan honeysuckle (Leycesteria formosa)

Leycesteria formosa is native to parts of Asia including China and Tibet and although vigorous, isn’t considered invasive in the UK. It’s an easy to grow shrub that will thrive in a range of soils, in either sun or partial shade.

Similarities: similar looking, hollow stems that grow to 2m or more, and leaves that are alternately placed.

Differences: the leaves themselves are narrower than those of Japanese knotweed with pendulous purple and white flowers.

Lesser knotweed (Persicaria campanulata)

Persicaria campanulata, also known as Koenigia campanulata, is a perennial that’s native to the Himalaya region. It has pink flowers July to September and is a good plant for suppressing weeds in the border. It’s not invasive, but does spread through nodes on the plant’s stem, which put down roots when they touch the ground. It’s easy to pull out if it gets too big for its spot.

Similarities: it has similar stems and leaf arrangement.

Differences: the leaves are long and thin with visible veins and the flowers are larger than Japanese knotweed, and bell shaped.

Broad leafed dock (Rumex obtusifolius)

Broad leafed dock is from the same family as Japanese knotweed, but although it spreads easily, it does so by seed dispersal rather than rhizomes. It’s native to Britain and considered a problematic weed, but it is more of a problem on farm land than in gardens.

Similarities: in winter the dead stems look similar to the winter stems of Japanese knotweed. The plant has similar flower spikes, although broad leafed dock has green and red flowers.

Differences: the stems of broad leafed dock are not hollow and the leaves are larger, forming in rosettes near the ground as well as up the stem.

Other plants that can be mistaken for Japanese knotweed include:

• Horsetail (Equisetum arvense)
• Ground elder (Aegopodium podagraria)
• Giant fleece flower (Persicaria polymorpha)
• Redshank (Persicaria maculosa)
• Dogwood (Cornus sanguinea)
• Lilac (Syringa vulgaris)

Gardening can be labour intensive, but making changes to the way you deal with watering, weeding and pruning, along with clever plant choices, can make your garden more low maintenance. You can make small changes, like swapping high maintenance plants like dahlias and roses, with easy long flowering perennials or evergreen shrubs. Or make a big change, like getting rid of your lawn and embracing a gravel garden.

The type of garden that is easiest to maintain is one where the plants are as self sufficient as possible, with less need for watering or deadheading, and there are simple plant displays that offer long lasting interest. You can also use mulch, such as bark chippings or gravel, to keep weeds down.

Whether you’re planning a new garden or making changes to an existing one, prioritise what you most enjoy, whether that’s veg gardening or planting up pots. Leave time for these activities and make the rest of your outdoor space easy and quick to manage. Here’s a few ideas of how to make your garden more low-maintenance.

Planning a low maintenance garden

Evergreen shrubs not only provide structure and winter interest in the garden, but they’re also a low maintenance plant. Choose shrubs that are slow growing and don’t need much pruning, such as abelias and pittosporum. Look also for shrubs that don’t need deadheading, such as fuchsias.

• Buy abelia from Crocus

Sowing vegetables from seed is budget friendly, but it can take time, especially if you grow labour intensive vegetables like tomatoes, which need to be potted on several times. Save time by buying vegetable plug plants, which can be planted direct outdoors. For tender veg, wait until the danger of frosts is over. If you only need a few tomato or kale plants, for example, it can be much easier to buy a strip of plug plants.

• Buy veg plug plants from Crocus

Fruit such as strawberries, rhubarb, gooseberries and currants provide a crop every year but need little attention after planting. Choose low maintenance fruit and you’ll get an easy harvest for very little effort. Strawberry plants may need replacing after three or four years, but otherwise they are easy to look after, while gooseberries and currants just need light pruning in winter.

• Buy strawberry plants from Crocus

If bending down is a problem or you are planning a garden for elderly gardeners, raised beds are a good option. This brings the soil level up to a more accessible height, making planting and weeding easier.

• Buy a raised bed kit from Crocus

Large pots will dry out more slowly than small ones, so you won’t have to water them as often. Make a focal point with a big container, using one or two plants that can stay in year round. This will cut down on the amount of seasonal planting you need to change.

• Buy containers from Thompson & Morgan

Choose reliable plants such as hardy geraniums or hebes that don’t need lots of attention to thrive. Look for plants with an RHS Award of Garden Merit, which is given to plants that perform well. Make sure you choose plants that suit the conditions in your garden. This will cut down on the amount of time you spend maintaining plants.

• Buy hardy geraniums from Sarah Raven

Lay a mulch around and between plants to suppress weeds. There’s a wide range of mulches that can help keep weeds at bay and they have the added benefit of retaining moisture in the soil. These include home-made garden compost, gravel and woodchips or bark. Organic mulches will also release nutrients over time and improve the structure of your soil.

• Buy mulch from Thompson & Morgan

Using ground cover plants is another way to suppress weeds. Avoid leaving bare patches in your borders where weeds can establish and flourish. Low maintenance ground cover plants include Persicaria bistorta, which is quick to spread and also flowers for months, from April to August, or for shade, Ajuga reptans is a good pick.

• Buy ground cover plants from Thompson & Morgan

If you have limited time swap your lawn for a gravel garden – a great choice if you want low-maintenance landscaping. Lawns can be one of the most labour intensive parts of the garden, whereas drought tolerant plants in a gravel garden need little care once established. The gravel should also help to keep down weeds.

• Buy drought tolerant plants from Crocus

Set up an automatic irrigation system for your containers and save time on watering, especially during summer when pots will need to be watered every day in hot weather. Irrigation systems can also be connected to a timer.

• Buy an irrigation system from B&Q

Parsley root (Petroselinum crispum var tuberosum) is a useful hardy winter vegetable, grown for its tasty edible roots which are long, white and tapered, topped with green leaves that are similar to flat-leaf parsley. Other names for parsley root include Hamburg parsley, because it is a popular vegetable in Germany, parsnip-rooted parsley, and turnip-rooted parsley. In flavour, the roots are like parsnip, although the texture is creamier and the flavour is sweeter, often described as nutty, carrotty, or like celery. The root is high in fibre and is not reported to have adverse side effects on digestion. Add parsley root to soups and stews, cook and use as a side dish, or look for parsley root recipes online.

What is parsley root?

Parsley root is different – although related to – the leafy type of parsley that is widely grown as an herb. In appearance, the roots are similar to a parsnip, though slimmer, and lacking the woody core that a parsnip has. Mature roots of parsley root are around 15-20cm long and 5cm in diameter. The leaves of parsley root form a clump that grows to around 45cm high. They look similar to flat-leaf parsley and can be used in much the same way.

How to grow parsley root

Grow parsley root in moist but well-drained, moderately fertile soil, in full sun to partial shade. Parsley root needs a long growing season so sow seed in early spring for an autumn to winter harvest.

Where to grow parsley root

Grow parsley root in sun or partial shade, in good, deep, fertile soil.

How to plant parsley root

Parsley root needs a long growing season. Sow seed in early spring for an autumn to winter harvest. Sow direct where plants are to grow on well-prepared soil, that’s free from stones and has not been manured recently as this could cause the roots to fork. If the soil is heavy, warm it beneath cloches for three weeks before sowing. If it’s prone to water-logging,  mound up the soil to increase drainage, and sow seed on the top. Sow the seed in rows, 1cm deep and with 30cm between rows. Seed may be slow to germinate and can take up to a month to appear.

How to care for parsley root

Once seedlings appear, thin to around 23cm apart. Weed regularly to stop weeds competing with them for water and nutrients. Parsley root needs to be kept moist so water regularly and thoroughly during dry spells.

How to harvest parsley root

You can pick parsley root leaves throughout the growing season and use them like flat leaf parsley.

The roots are ready to harvest from late autumn and into winter, depending on when the seeds were sown. Harvest one or two to start with to see how long they are – ideally they should be around 12-15cm long. You can use them straight away or store them somewhere dark and cold for several months, you can also leave them in the ground until you need to use them. The roots will keep in the fridge for up to three weeks and can also be frozen.

Pests and diseases

While parsley root is not susceptible to particular pests or diseases, slugs may be attracted to the young plants, especially at the seedling stage, so protect with barriers such as copper or slug-resistant mulch, or use wildlife-friendly slug pellets, which are made using ferrous phosphate.

Frequently asked questions

Is a parsley root the same as a parsnip?

While parsley root is similar to parsnip in appearance, the two plants are botanically quite different, as is indicated by their botanical names: Petroselinum crispum var tuberosum (parsley root) and Pastinaca sativa (parsnip). In size and shape, parsley root is long and slender, while parsnip is shorter and broader, with a sunken top.

Can you eat parsley root?

Both roots and leaves of parsley root can be eaten, but parsley root or Hamburg parsley mustn’t be confused with leaf parsley (Petroselinum crispum) where only the stems and leaves are good to eat.

Whether you’re new to gardening or a seasoned professional, planning, tracking and nurturing your fruit and vegetable plants each season is a real skill, but we could all do with a bit of guidance sometimes. That’s where VegPlotter can help, and it’s now offering ten lucky readers a lifetime advanced subscription to its handy planners.

Inspired by common green-fingered challenges, VegPlotter designed its intuitive software with the help of real gardeners to simplify your experience, from deciding what and when to plant to optimising your plot’s layout for maximum yield. Plus, it can adapt to your unique gardening style and deliver tailored advice to help your outdoor space thrive.

Discover how VegPlotter can support your gardening journey at https://vegplotter.com/gwcomp1

Prize details

Ten winners will receive a lifetime subscription to VegPlotter’s garden planning software with full advanced access to its Allotment Planner. This includes the ability to create a personal monthly task list, unlimited notes and photos to journal your progress, as well as custom plants with unique planting schedules tailored to your local climate.

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To be in with a chance of winning, simply answer the question below correctly by 23:59 on 19 February 2025. The winners will be notified, and the prize arranged for delivery after this date.

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